Ride to The Kangla Fort and Bishnupur, Manipur

Ride to The Kangla Fort and Bishnupur, Manipur

The Kangla Fort in the heart of Imphal in Manipur was the seat of the Manipuri Royals for several centuries. This impressive bastion is believed to have been first built on the bank of the Imphal River in 33 ce by the mythical king Nongda Lairen Pakhemba. Over the ages the fort remained as a stronghold in the Manipur Valley and its present shape was given to it by King Khagemba and his son Khunjoeba in the 16th and the 17th centuries. The Vishnu Temple of Bishnupur is about 30 kms south of Imphal and is the oldest Hindu structure in the Manipur Valley. This small brick built temple was constructed by King Kiyamba in the 16th century after receiving a Vishnu emblem from the Shan King of North Burma.

Kangla Fort

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The Jagatsukh Temple Complex, Jagatsukh, Kullu, HP

The Jagatsukh Temple complex is an ancient cluster of which two exquisitely carved shrines remain. The older of the two is a tiny Nagara styled structure adorned with several sculptures, whose workmanship can be dated to the 8th-9th century and is dedicated to Shiva. The larger shrine before it is a renovated structure of the Himachali wooden type that has incorporated the sculptural remains of an earlier Nagara style temple that existed on the spot. This shrine is dedicated to Sandhya Gayatri, a deity associated with the sun, and after whom the most important mantra from the Rig Veda is named. Herman Goetz in his book The Early Wooden Temples of Chamba, has observed that β€œthe original Sandhya Devi Temple of Jagatsukh in Kullu belongs to a style group which we have to associate with Kanauj of the Ayudha dynasty(Gahadvala Dynasty)”. 

One interesting aspect of this site is that the shrine dedicated to Shiva has a three headed Vishnu sculpture, which is unique. Another important mention that should not be omitted is that this shrine has a lady priest. The shrine of Gayatri displays a reclining Vishnu that too is one of a kind, as it rests on its right shoulder unlike all other Aantashayana Vishnu sculptures.

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The Rahilsagar Sun Temple, Mahoba, UP

The beautiful Sun Temple of Rahilsagar of Mahoba was constructed by the Chandela ruler Rahildev Verman in 890-915 ce. Otherwise known as Rahila this early Chandela ruler is remembered as a warrior and builders of early granite temples in the Mahoba region. The excavation of the rather large lake Rahilsagar is attributed to him beside which is the Sun temple that carries his name. This Sun Temple complex stood for 312 years before it was destroyed by Qutub Uddin Aibak in 1202, when he captured Mahoba from the Chandelas. The environment around the temple complex is a picnickers delight..

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The Khakra Math Temple and Shiva Tandav, Mahoba, UP

Mahoba is an ancient city that was the centre of Eastern Bundelkhand. This place was strategically chosen by the early Chandela Rulers to be their capital. It was Nannuka of the Chandra Dynasty who perhaps established Mahoba. The Chandelas are a corrupted pronunciation of the word Chandra. Nannuka traced his ancestral descent from the moon and was a Shiva worshipper. Placed around three large lakes on the slopes of granite boulder hills, Mahoba flourished as a centre of art and culture of the three dominant religions of the time. Buddhism, Jainism and Hinduism have left their religious markers in and around the city in the form of temples, rock cut sculptures and free standing sculptures that now adorn museums. Four Buddhist sculptures from Mahoba at the Lucknow Museum are the finest of its kind in the world. The early Chandelas were feudatories of Imperial Kannauj, whose rulers were the members of the Gurjar Prathihara Dynasty. Yashovarman in the 10th century became independent of Kannauj and shifted his capital to Khajuraho and Kalinjar. Two centuries after him the Chandelas went into obscurity after two successive attacks, first by the Chauhans of Ajmer led by the famous Prithiviraj Chauhan and a few years after by Qutubuddin Aibak, a general of Muhammad Ghori, who sacked Mahoba in 1202. 

INFO FROM https://mahoba.nic.in/history/

The name Mahoba is derived from β€˜Mahotsav Nagar’, the city of great festivals , which were celeberated here by Chandra-Verman or Nannuka, The traditional founder of the Chandella Dynasty. The Bardic tradition preserves three other names of the City viz Kekaipur, Patanpur and Ratanpur. Thest names are said to have been current in the Treta and Dwapar Yugas. The existance of the sacred β€˜Ram-Kund’ and β€˜Seeta-Rasoi’ cave at the Gokhar hill here are said to be monumental to the visit of God RAMA who widely treated this hilly region while in 14-year exile at Chitrakoot.

Before the rise of Chandellas, Mahoba was held by the Gaharwar and Pratihar clans of Rajputs. The Chandella ruler Chandra-Verman, who hailed from Maniagarh, his birth place near Panna, took it over from Pratihar rulers and adopted it as his Capital. Later, Vakpati, Jejja, Vijai Shakti and Rahila-deva succeeded him.

Among the later Chandella rulers whose names are particularly associated with the local monuments are Vijai-pal (1035-1045 AD) who built the Vijai-sagar lake, Keerti-Verman (1060-1100 AD) built Keerat sagar tank and Madan-Verman (1128-1164 AD) who built Madan Sagar. The last prominent Chandella ruler was Parmardi-deva or Parmal whose name is still popular due to the heroic deeds of his two Generals β€˜Alha’ and β€˜Udala’ who own many battles. The court poet Jagnik Rao has made their names immortal through his popular ballad (Veer-Kavya) β€˜Alha-Khand’. It is recited through-out the hindi speaking masses in the country. In 1860 AD an English Officer of the East India Company, Mr. William Waterfield was so impressed with the ballad that he translated it into English under the title name of β€˜Lay of Alha’ which was published by the Oxford University Press of England. Another prominent scripture which has an account of Mahoba’s grandure is the Jain text β€˜Prabhandh-kosh’ which refers to its magnificence which could only be realized and not described.

The reign of Parmardi-deva or Parmala,the Fifteen ruler of the dynasty,witnessed the fall of Mahoba.In 1182 A.D.differences arose between Parmala and Delhi king Prithviraj who gave an ultimatum lying certain conditions to be fulfilled by Parmala or to surrender.He made seize of Mahoba and his General Chaumund Rai even made a surprise attack on the Kajli procession of queen Malhna who hadgone to Keerat Sagar tank to offer Kajli Pooja on the Raksha-Bandhan day.A grim fight ensued in which Mahoba warriors:Udala,Brahma,Ranjeet,and Abhai(son of Mahila) repulsed the attack and Chaumund-Rai had to flee to his base camp at Pachpahara.The Kajli-Pooja was consequently celebrated the next day and that traditioncontinues to be followed even to this date.The third day is observed as a Victory Day and a thanks-giving Pooja is performed to Lord Shiva,Gajantak Shiva idol on Gokhar hill.

Later,the Chauhan King Prithvi Raj captured Mahoba despite the brave fight put-up by the Banafer brothers:Alha and Udal.Other warriors of Mahoba viz.Udal,Brahma,Malkhan,Sulkhan,Dheba & Tala Saiyyad etc.laid down their lives in the battle.Parmala had to retreat to Kalinjar leaving Mahoba in the hands of the conqueror.Prithvi Raj appointed his Thanapati Pajjun Rai as his administrator.A few years later,he was driven out by samarjeet,son of Parmala.This,however,could not stop the begining of the end of Chandella rule.Two decades later,Qutubuddin Aibek vanquised Mahoba and Kalinjar in 1203 A.D..Aibk took away immense booty with thousands of artisans as prisoners.He deported most of them to Ghazni as slaves and got constructed beautiful buildings there.Later,Trailokya Verman,another son of Parmala,recovered Mahoba and Kalinjar but the Chandellas lost their eminence.Mahoba had to lose its independence and become a part of the Delhi Sultanate.

After about 2 centuries of obsecurity a notable Chandella ruler Keerat Pal Singh rose to power and re-estabilished his domain over Kalinjar and Mahoba.His illustrious daughter Durga Wati was married to Gond ruler Dalpat-shah of Garh Mandla(near Jabalpur) in 1543 A.D..Later,Keerat Pal Singh battled bravely with Sher Shah Suri,while defending Kalinjar fort in 1545 A.D..Sher Shah,however,captured the fort after a prolonged fight but was killed in an explosion while directing final assault on the fort.

The account of Rani Durga Wati’s deeds is most glorious. She administrated her territory admirably well after the death of Raja Dalpat Shah and in 1564 A.D. gallantly resisted the unprovked aggression of Mughal king Akbar,whose general Asif Khan attacted Garh Mandla to annex Rani’s territory. The Rani gave a brave fight but lost her life in the battle-field. The aggression of Akbar on women rulers like Durga Wati and Chand-bibi tarnish his image as a liberal ruler.

In the post Chandella period the history of Mahoba gets obscure. It was under the reign of Delhi Sultans. Local traditions ascribe and associate Bhars, Gonds and Khangar clans who held its administration from time to time. However, during the reign of akbar, it was constituted into a β€˜Mahal’ in the Sarkar of Kalinjar within the Suba of Allahabad. According to β€˜Aine-Akbari, it had an area of 82000 Bighas yielding a revenue of over 40,42000 Dams in addition to 12000 Pans (Betel-leaves) to the Moghal Darbar. Mahoba has been famous for its betal-leaves cultivation ever since the first Chandella ruler Chandra-Verman who adopted it as his capital. During the Moghal period the revenue assessment of Mahoba suggests a high degree of prosperity in comparision to the neighbouring β€˜Mahals’. Later, with the rise of Chhatrasal Bundela, Mahoba passed under his sway but failed to acquire and kind of pre-eminience. In the 17th centuary Chhatrasal declared independence and put a stiff resistance against Aurangzeb. He established a Bundella Principality and Bahadur Shah Moghal had to confirm all his acquisitions in the area called β€˜Bundelkhand’. There was revival of hostelities during the region of reign of Farrukhsiyar when his general Mohammed Khan Bangash invaded Bundelkhand in the year 1729 AD. and the aged ruler Chatrasal had to seek aid from Peshwa Baji rao. His β€˜Maratha’army comprising of 70,000 men dashed from Indore (Malwa) and encamped at Mahoba. They surrounded forces of nawab Banghash who had captured Jaitpur, Belatal, Mudhari and Kulpahar etc. The Peshwa inflicted a crushing defeat over the Nawab by annihilating his forces in the dense forests of Jaitpur, Mudhari and Salat etc. In return for this help, Chhatrasal bequeathed one third of his dominion to the Maratha Cheiftain. That part included Mahoba, Shri Nagar, Jaitpur, Kulpahar etc. Later, under the treaty Bessien in 1803 AD the marathas ceded Bundelkhand area to British rulers. Its administration was , however, carried over by the subedar of Jalaun untill 1858 AD when it was finally annexed by the East India Company. Mahoba was made the head-quarter of a sub-division in the district of Hamirpur. Its later history is un-eventful except for the local revolt in the first freedom struggle of 1857 AD when the british Sub-divisional Magistrate, Mr Carne, had to flee and seek refuge in the nearby Charkhri estate which was being ruled by Raja Ratan Singh. The Rani of Jhansi, got annoyed over this betrayel of Raja and deputed her general Tantia Tope to attack Charkhari and capture Mr.Carne.Raja Ratan Singh surrendered and entered into a treaty with Tantya Tope.Mahoba was then under the rule of rebels whom the BritishGeneral Whitloack defeated and restored British rule.He arrested a large number of local rebels and hanged some of the prominent men on the trees in the vicinity called Haveli Darwaza. A”Shaheed Mela” is now annually held there to commemorate the memory of those rebels.

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Metallic Rock Artefacts ,Teevardev Buddhist Monastery and some 'metallic' pillars adjacent to it in Sirpur, Chattisgarh.

I came across these metallic rock artifacts at the 1300 years old Teevardev Buddhist Monastery and some 'metallic' pillars adjacent to it in Sirpur, Chattishgarh. These are made up of overtly iron rich rocks that does not rust but takes on a twany colour. This region on the banks of the Mahanadi River has some strange rock formation. Most sculpture at Sirpur are made up of fossilised pink sandstones, some are metallic and some structures are built out of white limestones....such variety of raw materials is unheard of in any other site.

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The Gokhar Hill Jain Carvings, Mahoba, UP.

The granite boulders strewn Gokhar Hill outside Mahoba is famous for its Jain rock cut sculptures that date back to 1218 ce. This hill range was also home to Yogi Gorakhnath, who meditated here and gave this small range its name. This range also hosted holy caves of the now extinct Buddhists of Mahoba.

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The Suryas of Gwalior Fort, Gwalior

Surya, the Sun God is perhaps the oldest deity to be worshipped by man and also the continuously venerated celestial object. Its iconography is as diverse as its origin stories. However the Indian iconography of Surya is a direct rendition of its Central Asian avatars and was brought to the Subcontinent by the Kushans and the Sakadwipi Brahmins (Maga Brahmins from the fire worshipping Magis of Iran) who migrated from Iran along with the Zorastarians post its conquest by Omar, the second Khalifa of Islam.

Surya is the only deity in the Hindu pantheon to wear knee length boots, wear an armour and ride a chariot drawn by seven horses (the number of horses increased over the millennia, culminating in seven, which kind of represents the seven colours of sunlight). Ironically this battle attired deity does not carry any weapons but two blooming lotuses or other large flowers in his two arms.

The pics below are of Surya, carved on the cliff face of the approach to the Gwalior Fort. This is perhaps the only place in the Subcontinent that has somany Suryas sculpted on one rock face.

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The Bandhavgarh Safari and Janmashtami

The Bandhavgarh safari was quite an adventure for us not because we had to keep a lookout for tigers but because I had to visit the difficult-to-reach gigantic reclining Vishnu statue in the heart of the forest at Tala Sector C. It is very difficult to get an immediate safari booking in Bandhavgarh, as these visiting slots get booked online, months before. It is very typical of me that I really do not do any previous bookings and always prefer to take my chances when I reach my destination. And so was it with Bandhavgarh... luckily we did get safari bookings but with much effort and coaxing until the chief Range Officer agreed to my request, for I wanted to visit the 1000 years old giant of Bandhavgarh, who lay slumbering in the C sector of the forest.
Permission to go to this sector is not given so often nowadays. Only on the day of Janmastami i.e Krishna's Birthday in August, are people allowed to visit this site and also climb up to the fort above it, which has several sculptures. Well my endeavor to get to those statues was helped immensely by Mr Avinash Patel, the owner of the Wildflower Resort, Bandhavgarh, where we were staying. Three trips did I make to the Range Office with my request until finally they agreed to give me a permit to visit the reclining Vishnu, but no further than that and that too I had to book an entire 4x4 vehicle all to myself, which was pretty pricey. Well, something was better than nothing and as a bonus I also saw four tigers and two tiny cubs apart from other animals, while on our dual purpose safari through the forest.

Ride to Tabo Monastery, Spiti Region, Himachal Pradesh

The Tabo Monastery of Spiti Region of Himachal Pradesh is called the Ajanta of the Himalayas and was built about the same time as the caves way down in the Deccan traps in Maharashtra were being excavated. Its sobriquet of Ajanta of the Himalayas is due to the innumerable paintings and some sculptures of Bodhisattvas that adorn its walls. This monastery was was founded in 996 ce by Lama Yeshe also known as Mahaguru Ratnabhadra.

On the mountains above the monastery are many caves, which are still being used as meditating niches by the monks, who dwell in this seat of learning. This was my third visit to the monastery, the first time I did not enter inside due to its unimposing facade and an in-explainable stupidity on my part of not researching about this treasure house. The second time when I went in prepared, armed with a professional camera, the authorities requested all camera wielding visitors to refrain from photographing its masterpieces, go figure. However along with the outer environment of the place I am putting up some pics of some of its paintings and sculptures that I scanned from a book about the Tabo, purchased from the site.

'The Tabo Gompa, or Buddhist monastery, is second in importance only to the Tholing Gompa in Tibet in the entire Himalayan region. It was developed as an advanced centre for learning by the great teacher and translator Lotsawa Rinchen Tsang Po, the king of western Himalayan Kingdom of Guge, also known as Lha Lama Yeshe O'd or Mahaguru Ratnabhadra. The Chos-Khor at Tabo remained one of the most important Buddhist establishments during the time of Lotsawa after the Chos-Khor at Tholing, the capital town of Guge. It is known that the Chos-Khor at Tabo commanded great importance, and hosted for a considerable period, many great scholars and translators in the Buddhist history studies. To date, it is the preserver of the Buddhist Legacy and is one of the most important Gompa of the entire Tibetan Buddhist world.' (http://www.aarogya.com/tabo/monastery.html)

The small village of Tabo has many hotels for weary travellers and generally tourists do stop over here for the night before the final leg of their journey to Kaza, which is only 55 kms away.

Ride to Bayana Fort, Rajasthan

J.R.R.Tolkien must have visited the Bayana Fort for him to have created the fantasy fortress of Helms Deep (The Lord of The Rings). The layout of Helms Deep is similar to the Bayana Fort. A huge and tall semi circular wall stretching from one cliff face to the next guards the main entrance of this ancient battlement that dates back to the post Gupta Era. And within that semi circular wall there is a monsoon waterfall, in-fact the fort also has another waterfall right in the middle of it. This hill fort with all the palaces and barracks is well protected behind several gates that are nestled atop a jagged rocky ridge, whose elevation is approximately 200 ft from the ground. The fort's outer wall on the ridge is 5 kms long encompassing an oasis at the bottom of the horse shoe shaped ridge, around which the fort is built. Tolkien's Helms Deep pales in comparison to the sheer size of this structure.

Bayana was also known earlier by various names such as Santipura, Sripatha and Vijaymandirgarh. The construction of fort is ascribed to Vijayapala in the 11th century ce, however a tall monolithic pillar stands erect atop the fort that has an inscription in stylised shanklipi on it. The the contains of the script ascribes it to Vishnuvardhan, son of the illustrious Yashovardhan, (Victorious over Mihirkula the Hun and was a feudatory of the Gupta monarch Kumargupta in 532 ce?) and the purpose of erecting this monolithic pillar was to commemorate a yagna sacrifice.

Ride to Menal Temple Complex, Rajasthan

The fantastic temple complex of Menal is a travelers delight, for this site is situated right by a deep gorge over which is a beautiful monsoon waterfall. The complex has several shrines withing the vicinity of a Bhumija styled temple built in the 11th century by Someshvar Chahamana and his queen Suhavadevi of the Shakambhari Dynasty (the Chauhans, whose last great ruler was the fabled Prithiviraj Chauhan). Prithiviraj Chauhan is said to have built a fort palace beside the waterfall by the complex, which can still be seen, however the palace part of the fort exists as a dilapidated ruin attributed to one Ruthi Rani. The main temple of Menal is dedicated to Shiva and so are the smaller shrines beside it. The name of the place Menal is derived form the word Maha Nal, meaning the great gorge. Menal is about 90 Kms from Chittorgarh in Rajasthan.

Info from the WIKIPEDIA: The Menal temple complex consists of a group of Siva temple on both sides of the waterfall. The name Menal is derived from Maha Nal (great gorge). This temple complex was built by Someshvar Chahamana and his queen Suhavadevi of the Shakambhari dynasty during the 11th century A.D. The construction of the main structural group, on the left side of the gorge, is credited to the king while the single temple with a detached monastery across the river is associated with the queen, albeit the foundation inscription has been lost now. However, the fame of place grew during reign of King Prithviraj Chauhan, as it was his favourite mountain retreat during the scorching Rajasthan summers.

Benaras, the cyclical persistence of memory, UP.

Benaras, the cyclical persistence of memory, UP.

Benaras, the cyclical persistence of memory, UP.

I have been to a few continuously living cities spread around the older parts of Asia, Africa and peninsular India and I have been to Benaras. Bagdad saw utter destruction at the hands of the Ilkhanate forces led by Ghengis' grandson Haluga and the brother of Kublai Khan. Cairo, Damascus, Constantinapole, Jerusalem never saw complete destruction at the hands of the new nation of Islam under the Chaliphs. 

Benaras being as as old these cities was destroyed more times than living memory can recall for certainty. India then being a politically fragmented entity with temples that loved to hoard offerings to the idols in them, attracted the attention of the Muslim conquerors.They satiated their greed for gold and bloodlust by looting and demolishing idols and their sancturies by obliterating non believers as sanctioned by the quran. The writings from their scriptures was used as a license to justify the genocide perpetrated by them, which according to the ulema was not considered as any crime, but rather meritorious acts that guaranteed them virgins in heaven...

Benaras being the centre of the idol worshipping, world periodically faced such onslaughts. After every carnage the city rebuilt itself over time on the debris scattered by thoughtless intolerant barbarians like Ghazni in 1025, Ahmed Nialtjin a general of Ghazni in 1033, Muhammed Ghori in 1194, Qutub uddin Aibak in 1194 and 1197, Illtutmish in 1226, Allauddin Khilji in 1296, Firoz Shah Tuglaq in 1374, Mahmud Shah Tuglaq in 1436, Shikandar Lodhi in 1489, Babur in 1529 and finally Aurangazeb in the 17th century. This bigot through his over zealous act sowed the seeds of discord between the Hindus and Muslims in present India. 

Aurangazeb demolished the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the holiest shrine of the city and built a mosque over it making it the cause for another Ayodhya like situation in modern secular India. Primarily because of his iconoclastic deeds unbecoming what a few of his ancestors like Akbar, Jahangir and father Shahjahan stood for, this bigoted Emperor of India used his unbridled powers to dmolish all that he considered sacriligious to Islam. His murderous rule alianated the non muslims scattering acrimony as a cultural memory so plagued with injustice that over the past centuries it festered like puss filled blisters, only to be exploited by the extremistists of both religious hues. At present even after his death in 1707 the majority of Hindus look at their fellow Muslim citizens with suspect. On the other hand this fire of mistrust is fuelled when Indian Muslims unmindful of his past wrongs put Aurangazeb on a pedestal and peddle him as an ideal ruler. Apart from this stupidity on the part of the Muslim community any sort of acrimony against the muslim umma makes no sense, because how can you blame a community for the crimes of their ancestors. Also 90% of the present Muslims in India are the descendents of low caste communities, who were and are always denied their due dignity at the hands of the upper castes Hindus. 

Not being an apologist for the past misdeeds of our uneducated ancestors or delving into socio-political aspect of India's complex and bloody past, I would rather concentrate on the creative aspect of Indians as my strength. Getting back to Benaras, no other city on the face of the earth has seen such misery and untold bloodshed over a span of nearly 700 years. Not for nothing is this place called the city of death. For according to the beliefs of the Hindus, its is spiritually meritorious to die and be cremated here. The pyres at the two crematoriums namely the Manikarnika and the Harishchandra Ghats never go out. 

Benaras after each wave of destruction rebuilt its places of worship. One must give it to the tenacity of its residents and the vanquished rulers, those that still had their heads on their shoulders, to carry forward tales of the intended existence of the city to rebuild what was desecrated, and this went on and on. Ultimately creation prevailed over destruction and we get the city as it is today. 

Post the fall of Islamic kingdoms in India, various resurgent Hindu powers like the Marathas, the Bundelkhand Rajputs, Zamindars from Bengal, Royals from Nepal and South India contributed to the work of rebuilding this ancient place that saw constant habitation from about 1000bce.

Set between the confluence of Varuna and Assi with the Ganga, Benaras is a colloqual pronunciation of an amalgamated name formed by joining Varuna and Assi, Varanasi. This city is also called Kashi, which comes from the root word kas (shinning brass) meaning the city of eternal light/learning due to the knowledge monopoly of Brahmins who dwelt there. It is also called the city of Shiva as many myths related to the god of destruction are associated with it. The Buddha, lived here for many years and preached his first sermon at the north end of the city at Saranath. 

Benaras finds mention in the Mahabharata, Puranas, the Buddhist and Jain texts and in the works of later day travellers. In the pan Indian psyche since ancient times and in the sacred geography of the subcontinent, this city is akin to an ideal, which by nature is utopic. Thus any town or city in India, with a considerable number of temples in it, is often termed the Benaras of the east, west, north and south. It is also a favourite destination for foreign tourists, who through the Eurocentric notion of an exotic land lost in time, gets a microcosmic experience of India by just walking along the many Ghats of this ancient city.

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